Cook the cauliflower: bring a large pot of salted water to a boil; cook the florets 8–12 minutes until fork-tender; drain; return to the warm pot and steam-dry 2–3 minutes.

Tip the hot cauliflower into a food processor; add the cream cheese, sour cream, butter, salt and pepper.

Pulse a few times, scrape down the sides, then blend continuously until perfectly smooth.

Scoop into a bowl and swoosh the surface with the back of a spoon.

Set a pat of butter in the swoosh and scatter the chives over. Serve hot.